Percutaneous absorption. Possible penetration routes. Formulation factors that influence percutaneous absorption. Absorption promoters.
Raw Materials Used for Cosmetic Use. Oils, fats and waxes. General characteristics of composition of vegetable, animal and mineral fats. Main synthetic oils of cosmetic use. Chemical characteristics and control specifications. Polarity index and spreading coefficient. Emollient. Rheological modifiers. Main chemical classes, characteristics, properties, uses and application limits. Surfactants. Main chemical classes, characteristics and uses. Primary functions (detergent, foaming, solubilizing, conditioning properties). Secondary functions (thickening, viscosizing, opacifying, antimicrobial properties). Interactions of surfactants with the skin: irritant effects and related mechanisms. Emulsifiers. Main chemical classes, characteristics and uses. Cosmetic properties of oil in water and water in oil emulsions. History and evolution of oil / water emulsifiers according to dermatological compatibility, stability and compatibility. Lamellar liquid crystal emulsifiers. Gel network theory. Evolution of water / oil emulsifiers, silicone emulsifiers, polymeric emulsifiers. Multiple emulsions. Preservatives. Requirements of preserving molecules, main chemical classes of cosmetic use, chemical incompatibilities with other ingredients.
Solar products. Effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin, defense mechanisms, melanogenesis, classification of different skin types. Chemical-physical, toxicological and technological requirements of sunscreens. Organic sunscreens: main chemical classes, properties, mechanism of action, light stability. Inorganic filters: chemical-physical characteristics, mechanism of action, technological / formative problems. Evaluation of protective efficacy: SPF in vivo and in vitro. Formulation of sun protection products, vehicle effect, water resistance. After-sun products. Pre-sun products (tan activators).
Self-tanning products. Lightening or anti-stain products. Skin care products. Main causes and effects of hydration loss. Main moisturizing agents of humectant type (low molecular weight glycols, glucosides, NMF and its components, protein hydrolysates, hyaluronic acid and derivatives). Essential fatty acids and epidermal lipids. Main vitamins for cosmetic use: chemical characteristics, effects and mechanism of action of vitamin A, E, C and related esters.
Skin aging. Intrinsic aging and photoaging, effects and possible causes. Main anti-aging agents. Retinoic acid and retinoids, α-hydroxy acids, mechanism of action, irritant effects, methods of cosmetic use.
Cellulite and anti-cellulite treatments. Products for cleansing the scalp and scalp. Foam baths; shampoos, detergent emulsions. Hair care products. balms; hair dyes and dyes; undulating and modeling products.
Self-tanning products. Lightening or anti-stain products. Skin care products. Main causes and effects of hydration loss. Main moisturizing agents of humectant type (low molecular weight glycols, glucosides, NMF and its components, protein hydrolysates, hyaluronic acid and derivatives). Essential fatty acids and epidermal lipids. Main vitamins for cosmetic use: chemical characteristics, effects and mechanism of action of vitamin A, E, C and related esters.
Skin aging. Intrinsic aging and photoaging, effects and possible causes. Main anti-aging agents. Retinoic acid and retinoids, α-hydroxy acids, mechanism of action, irritant effects, methods of cosmetic use.
Cellulite and anti-cellulite treatments. Products for cleansing the scalp and scalp. Foam baths; shampoos, detergent emulsions. Hair care products. balms; hair dyes and dyes; undulating and modeling products.
Evaluation of in vitro and in vivo percutaneous absorption of cosmetic active ingredients. Effectiveness assessment of cosmetic products using non-invasive techniques. Evaluation of in vitro and in vivo percutaneous absorption of cosmetic active ingredients. Effectiveness assessment of cosmetic products using non-invasive techniques.
REGULATION (EC) No 1223/2009, harmonisation European cosmetic law, preparation of cosmetic products in pharmacy (regulations), preparation of cosmetic products by industries, how to organize the Product Information File, Cosmetic claims, INCI names of cosmetic ingredients
